Mumbai doesn’t shy away from its overwhelming pace. The aesthetic cafes and luxe restaurants of Colaba hide the peeling colonial facades and are a reminder of what the city used to be. Even in the city that doesn’t stop moving, its deepest corners hide rare gems that remain untouched by the rush and urge you to slow down. In the quaint neighbourhood of Navy Nagar in Colaba, the Afghan Church silently peeks with its tall Gothic spire.
A rather strange name for a church in Mumbai, isn’t it? Well, we will cure that curiosity as you read on.
The Gothic Mystery of the Afghan Church in Colaba
When Mumbai was the port city of Bombay, the British ships sailed by, with sailors yearning to take look at the steeple of the Church of St. John the Evangelist. The then-British colonial power sanctioned the military land of Colaba for the church in 1858 to honour the soldiers who had lost their lives in the First Anglo-Afghan War (1838-42). Thus earning its name, the Afghan War Memorial Church. Or simply, as Mumbaikars know it today, the Afghan Church. One can still find the engraved marble placards with the names of the martyrs mounted on its stunning Porbandar limestone altar.
Restored to its former glory in 2024, the Afghan Church stands as one of the earliest examples of Gothic revival architecture in the country. Its glorious 198-ft bell tower once served as a landmark for sailing ships entering the Bombay Harbour. You can still find the magnanimous eight ringing bells that were installed in yesteryears. As you step inside the Afghan Church, a strange yet calm silence settles in. Sunlight falls through the stunning 150-year-old stained-glass windows, shining a bokeh of colour across the high vaulted ceiling. Surreal Gothic arches surround the long aisle stretching through the middle, with side rows to sit and pray.
Another hidden gem within this hidden gem is the Marbel Lectern, a gorgeous piece of artwork from 1858 that continues to grace its walls even today.
The Church Today
The Afghan Church continues to be an active Anglican place of worship. It is an iconic landmark that marks the city’s ever-changing cultural fabric. If you are a lover of history and architecture, it certainly is worth a visit whenever you are in South Bombay. The best time is perhaps during Christmas when the Afghan Church sees hundreds of people flocking to attend its evening service. Cheerful, colourful, and adorned with a gracious Christmas tree, the Afghan Church certainly takes you back in time, especially during this festive season.
Key Information
Timings: Weekdays, 9 AM to 5 PM, Sunday, 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM
Sunday Morning Mass: In English at 8:30 AM
Entry: Free
Location: Aghan Church Duxbury Lane, Colaba Causeway, Navy Nagar, Colaba, Mumbai