I took a walk among the neighbourhood’s pastel alleyways a summer back. It was easy to let slip through the cracks of my mind that this slice of silence was right in the heart of frenzied Mumbai. Flowers burst along the window sills of archaic houses, blue-tiled walls present ornamental balconies and antiquated archways while the golden hues reflect against bungalows bursting in all primary colours. This Portugese neighbourhood tucked away in Giragaon, Khotachiwadi will remind you of Goan localities and simpler times.
The colourful bungalows dotted with greenery all brim with stories that make up the essence of this slow-living neighbourhood. It started with sixty-four bungalows now only twenty-four remain residing Catholics, Maharashtrians, and East Indians. Walking along you will find a multitude of potted plants lining pastel houses with blue, brown, and white open verandahs. Their archways on the front door provide an old-school character. These decorated front porches run common between the bungalows. Their intricate detailing, however, continues to preserve an identity of their own.
Though most of the architecture here remains altered and replaced by high-rise buildings, the essence of the neighbourhood remains unchallenged. With a strong smell of fish fry coming from open French windows, old men tuning their battered guitars, women sitting in circles, and children running barefoot and unbothered, this small settlement still thrives on the strong roots upon which it was once established.
Shop at the beautiful vintage store here in Khotachiwadi
No Borders Shop is a vintage clothing and accessories shop that aims to amalgamate the old and the new. The shop houses clothing inspired by traditional arts and embroidery and further hosts curated collections from different parts of the world. You can browse vintage finds from the likes of Chanel, and Ralph Lauren, and find authentic pieces from Morocco, Peru, and Ghana. The shop also houses art prints and embroideries.
Stroll through the corridors of the quaint design gallery
Among the narrow lanes of Khotachiwadi, resides the 47-A design gallery. A single-storey building with fresh coats of blue walls and yellow French windows, it blends well with its neighbours. A space to work with new talent within the field of contemporary artworks, the gallery aims to commission art and expose the audience to landmark design. The gallery also traces the historical journey of Khotachiwadi with archival photographs of its residents.
Experience an authentic stay at the Ferreira’s bed and breakfast
Owned by fashion designer James Ferreira, this gorgeous bungalow offers an authentic Portuguese homestay experience. This two-storeyed house with an open verandah provides views of the quiet cobbled lanes outside. You will find here, old black and white photographs, antique furniture, lace curtains, and light-painted walls, veiling you from the bustle of Mumbai. With free wifi, complementary breakfast, and ensuite rooms, this B&B is a must-stay. Double rooms are available for 6000 INR and you can book your stay here.
Try the beloved Yazdani bakery for a taste of deliciousness
You have to try this iconic Irani bakery during your visit to Khotachiwadi! A wall full of posters and wall clocks, this bakery is nothing short of a time capsule. Offering a wide range of baked goodies from freshly baked loaves of bread, pastries, nankatai (shortbread cookies), Khari biscuits (puff pastries), and more, this bakery has woven itself into the crux of old Bombay. Order buns with generous dollops of maska along with Irani chai or the delicious and warm apple pie. No, I will not be apologising for licking the plate clean while having breakfast here!
How to get to Khotachiwadi?
The nearest station here is Charni Road. You need to walk towards Theresa Church, take a right, and walk for a couple of hundred meters to come across a board spelling Khotachiwadi. Only two-wheelers are allowed in this settlement, so we recommend grabbing your camera and some comfortable shoes to explore a mini Goa in the heart of Mumbai.
Side-note: Although the neigbourhood houses friendly residents and beautiful bungalows, it is noteworthy to mention that visitors must remain mindful. This place is not only a local attraction but also people’s homes. Do not trespass or litter and be respectful towards the residents and their properties.